Post by Ronald on Oct 12, 2010 19:52:06 GMT -5
A lot of people like to use sand in their enclosures, however sand can and will cause impaction to your bearded dragon. So please do not use sand, if anything use tiles or paper towels, newspaper, or reptile carpet. But please people never use sand, some say oh but my pet store says calcium sand is OK. Wrong yes it is high in calcium but it will still cause impaction when enough of it is taken in. Some may also say well don't they live in deserts, yes they do live in Australian deserts, however their deserts are nothing like what you're thinking. Australian deserts are a hardened clay not loose sand.
I would also like to note that crushed walnut shells should not be used either, as they may cause impaction as well. If some of you are not familiar with impaction then please check the beardie facts board for more info.
© Ronald W. Smith
Habitat: the dragon's lair
Initially, hatchlings can live in a 10 gallon tank. You can transfer a juvenile to adult quarters when it is about 6 months old. Adults, while much smaller than iguanas, need significant space: a 40 gallon tank is a minimum, 55 or more for a pair. Check out my shopping list for items to acquire, Theldara's site for a sample setup procedure, and the Tenny and Swofford pages for terrarium possibilities.
For youngsters, I suggest a minimalist decorating scheme, with one elevated basking area, a hiding area, and paper towels as a substrate. Put the basking area closer to the heat source. If you supply a plethora of neat branches and rocks, you inadvertently provide abundant places for crickets to hide. Hiding crickets are problems in two ways. One, the beardeds can't eat what they can't find. Two (and more serious), the crickets come out at night and nibble on beardeds, who sleep quite soundly. At best the crickets stress the dragons; at worst they maim by, for instance, chewing holes in eyelids.
An alternative is to house your dragon in a well-decorated tank and to feed it in a separate tank. Add your dusted crickets to the empty tank, then put in your dragon and let it alone to feast for awhile. When it's done, it will usually start scratching at the glass. This method sometimes helps dragons with poor appetites get on track because transfer to the "eating tank" means eat now or skip a meal. It also helps if you have a pair of dragons and the smaller one begins to eat less because it feels stressed; feed them one at a time in a separate, neutral tank. Dragons have an idiosyncratic notion of sharing: "I'll eat crickets until I am completely full, and then you can have one."
House your dragon somewhere interesting--for the dragon. They prefer to be in the thick of things, where they can watch their pet humans display their incomprehensible activities. Do not hide them away in a seldom frequented bedroom. They have immense curiosity!
© K. W. Tosney
I would also like to note that crushed walnut shells should not be used either, as they may cause impaction as well. If some of you are not familiar with impaction then please check the beardie facts board for more info.
© Ronald W. Smith
Habitat: the dragon's lair
Initially, hatchlings can live in a 10 gallon tank. You can transfer a juvenile to adult quarters when it is about 6 months old. Adults, while much smaller than iguanas, need significant space: a 40 gallon tank is a minimum, 55 or more for a pair. Check out my shopping list for items to acquire, Theldara's site for a sample setup procedure, and the Tenny and Swofford pages for terrarium possibilities.
For youngsters, I suggest a minimalist decorating scheme, with one elevated basking area, a hiding area, and paper towels as a substrate. Put the basking area closer to the heat source. If you supply a plethora of neat branches and rocks, you inadvertently provide abundant places for crickets to hide. Hiding crickets are problems in two ways. One, the beardeds can't eat what they can't find. Two (and more serious), the crickets come out at night and nibble on beardeds, who sleep quite soundly. At best the crickets stress the dragons; at worst they maim by, for instance, chewing holes in eyelids.
An alternative is to house your dragon in a well-decorated tank and to feed it in a separate tank. Add your dusted crickets to the empty tank, then put in your dragon and let it alone to feast for awhile. When it's done, it will usually start scratching at the glass. This method sometimes helps dragons with poor appetites get on track because transfer to the "eating tank" means eat now or skip a meal. It also helps if you have a pair of dragons and the smaller one begins to eat less because it feels stressed; feed them one at a time in a separate, neutral tank. Dragons have an idiosyncratic notion of sharing: "I'll eat crickets until I am completely full, and then you can have one."
House your dragon somewhere interesting--for the dragon. They prefer to be in the thick of things, where they can watch their pet humans display their incomprehensible activities. Do not hide them away in a seldom frequented bedroom. They have immense curiosity!
© K. W. Tosney