Post by Ronald on Oct 12, 2010 20:16:54 GMT -5
Lighting plays two roles. First, natural sunlight or full spectrum lighting is vital for calcium metabolism. The operative wavelengths are in the ultraviolet UVB range, which is offered by a few "full spectrum" fluorescent-type bulbs. The Zoo-med's Reptisun UVB 5.0 is most commonly available and is widely reported to be sufficient to grow healthy dragons. The UVB stimulates the skin to synthesize vitamin D. All full-spectrum bulbs lose the UVB component of their output with time and must be replaced every 6 months. Note that the UVB does not penetrate glass or plastic; don't use a glass top to your dragon's lair. Use a screen top.
Second, use an incandescent bulb in a heat-reflector fixture to control heat and to provide the bright light that beardies need to keep active and happy. A correct temperature is critical to healthy growth. Dragons must become warm enough (body temperature of about 100 deg F) to digest their food. Digestion is temperature-sensitive. If they are too cold, their food will merely decay in their stomachs. Dragons that are eating poorly are likely living at the wrong temperature. To achieve the correct temperature, set up a temperature gradient in the cage: place the light bulb over one end of the cage, not at the center. The gradient should range from the mid 70's or low 80's on the cool side to the mid 80's on the warm side, with a basking area ranging from 95-105. Don't guess the temperature; buy a thermometer. Adjust the wattage of the bulb and height of the basking site to get the correct temperature. DON'T COOK YOUR DRAGON. If you wish, you can put the heating element on a thermostat. Although beardeds primarily dwell in the desert, they bask in the mornings to warm up and then seek out relatively cool areas as the day becomes scorching. A gradient lets them chose their temperatures.
Under-tank heaters are sometimes used to add gentle bottom heat. They can aid the dragons' digestion, particularly since they can keep bearded bellies warm for 24 hours a day. Constantly warm tummies may therefore enhance growth rate. The heaters are, however, a supplement rather than a substitution for basking lights, since they do not provide the beneficial light that simulates daytime. In addition, hot rocks have lethally burned lizards, which are less sensitive to heat from a ventral source and may not know they are being burnt until too late. Avoid hot rocks. I use under-tank heaters only from gravid females. Using them can, however, prevent developing a good temperature gradient. You don't need them.
Place both UVB and basking lights on an appliance timer (12-14 hours on; off at night). Erratic day lengths will screw up their circadian rhythms and make them first lethargic and then actively sick. The detect environmental cues important to their circadian rhythms through their "third eye", the parietal eye. The dark period will also allow night temperatures to fall appropriately. Temperature can go down to the 60's or even the upper 50's without harm. Dragons are well adapted to cool semi-desert nights.
© K. W. Tosney
Second, use an incandescent bulb in a heat-reflector fixture to control heat and to provide the bright light that beardies need to keep active and happy. A correct temperature is critical to healthy growth. Dragons must become warm enough (body temperature of about 100 deg F) to digest their food. Digestion is temperature-sensitive. If they are too cold, their food will merely decay in their stomachs. Dragons that are eating poorly are likely living at the wrong temperature. To achieve the correct temperature, set up a temperature gradient in the cage: place the light bulb over one end of the cage, not at the center. The gradient should range from the mid 70's or low 80's on the cool side to the mid 80's on the warm side, with a basking area ranging from 95-105. Don't guess the temperature; buy a thermometer. Adjust the wattage of the bulb and height of the basking site to get the correct temperature. DON'T COOK YOUR DRAGON. If you wish, you can put the heating element on a thermostat. Although beardeds primarily dwell in the desert, they bask in the mornings to warm up and then seek out relatively cool areas as the day becomes scorching. A gradient lets them chose their temperatures.
Under-tank heaters are sometimes used to add gentle bottom heat. They can aid the dragons' digestion, particularly since they can keep bearded bellies warm for 24 hours a day. Constantly warm tummies may therefore enhance growth rate. The heaters are, however, a supplement rather than a substitution for basking lights, since they do not provide the beneficial light that simulates daytime. In addition, hot rocks have lethally burned lizards, which are less sensitive to heat from a ventral source and may not know they are being burnt until too late. Avoid hot rocks. I use under-tank heaters only from gravid females. Using them can, however, prevent developing a good temperature gradient. You don't need them.
Place both UVB and basking lights on an appliance timer (12-14 hours on; off at night). Erratic day lengths will screw up their circadian rhythms and make them first lethargic and then actively sick. The detect environmental cues important to their circadian rhythms through their "third eye", the parietal eye. The dark period will also allow night temperatures to fall appropriately. Temperature can go down to the 60's or even the upper 50's without harm. Dragons are well adapted to cool semi-desert nights.
© K. W. Tosney