Post by Amanda on Oct 14, 2010 1:51:59 GMT -5
Care sheet for the Tegu.
Note some species will differ some on requirements.
This care sheet will be for four of the common species available in the pet trade.
Hatchling tegus will all take the same food up until about one year in age. Of these the Tupinambis merianae, Common name (Argentine Black and White), (Giant Tegu) And the Tupinambis rufescens, Common name (Argentine red Tegu), (Red tegu) will change feeding habits. The Blue Tegu is also a form of the Tupinambis merianae, but the Tupinambis teguixin, Common name (Colombian Black and White), or (Gold Tegu) Will stay on a carnivorous diet throughout their life.
Food:
All Tegus are carnivores as hatchlings, which means they only eat meat. I do allow baby tegus to eat as much as they want to, except rodents. I feed them one once or twice a week, and also make sure they are the size that can swallow without too much trouble. Crickets dusted with vitamins dust, Captive raised roaches, Mealworms, Super mealworms, ground turkey dusted with vitamin dust, Pinkie mice and cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled. The only reptile supplement I have any faith in is Zoo-Med Repti Calcium without D3. Most other products are made from crushed oyster shells, and are not able to be absorbed. Therefore, being a poor product for a good healthy tegu.
As for my adults, I feed them everyday, as in the babies, the get one whole rodent, chick or duckling once or twice a week. However, my tegus do hibernate up to 7 months out of the year. If you have a tegu that does not hibernate, you can cut back on feeding him as much, or as frequent. Judged by the animal keeping good body weight, and a fat round tail base. If he starts to look like he might be loosing body mass, you can always add more to the diet.
Please remember to remove any food that is not eaten right after your tegu has eaten his/her fill. Insects are well known for stressing reptiles. This also will help keep their cage cleaner.
Adult tegus, for the Argentine Black and White and the Argentine red Tegu, the Blue Tegu and as well as the Extreme Giant tegus, they will take ground turkey; cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled, rodents, fresh fish (Not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruits. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is due to the high content of potassium (Known for not binding with calcium). Not more than once every couple of weeks. They also tend to have very high phosphorous levels. Some of my Argentine tegus will not eat fruit. They are just as healthy as any tegus that have fruit in the diet; they also have no shedding problems at all. The more I look into this, the more I see feeding fruit as being a waste of time and money. There are many things out there to feed your tegu that is much better than fruit. The Colombian Black and White, or (Gold Tegu) will take all of the above, except fruit. Also I suggest feeding only killed rodents. Live rodents can bite your animal. Dead do not; it is just not worth the chance. My choice of vitamin dust is Zoo-Med Repti Calcium without D3; it is made with calcium carbonate and not crushed oyster shell.
A side note on feeding: Tegus can get cage aggressive. They can get to where they will associate their keeper with food. There are a couple of ways to keep this from happening. The first is to feed your tegu in a separate cage or area than his home. Have the food there when you put him with it.
Another way, would be to feed him at night or when he is in his hide. Then he will not see you with food. The first suggestion is the best for a few reasons. One you handle him every day, which helps with the taming process. Another reason would be to remove all chances of him ingesting substrate. And last, but not least, the food would be fresher than feeding at night.
In my opinion, feeding fruit for skin problems has no solid ground to back the claims of some keepers. There is nothing in most fruits to promote good sheds but moisture, all though some fruits do contain some vitamins that are good for skin. There are other sources of these vitamins in much higher concentrations, these are found in meats. Feeding fruit seems to be nothing more than a wasted meal, and is not needed to have and keep a healthy tegu. There are other things that do contain the right vitamins, such as beef liver and cod liver oil. These need to be fed in conjunction with each other. Another words feed both of them once a week as a meal.
The way I mix my beef liver into the ground turkey:
I use one part of beef liver to three parts ground turkey, just mince the liver, or you can use a food processor. You can mix it together and then portion pack them into meal size zip-lock bags, freeze them and then thaw them as needed to feed. As in the little stamp zip-locks for hatchlings, up to sandwich bags for adults. You can make up a bunch of them and freeze them. Also this is fed raw, I do not cook anything for tegus but eggs.
Raw beef liver contains:
Vitamin A iu (ug * 5) 35346.000 10020.591 39940.98 706.9%
Vitamin B1 (Thiamin) mg 0.260 0.07371 0.2938 17.3%
Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) mg 2.780 0.78813 3.1414 163.5%
Vitamin B3 (Niacin) mg 12.780 3.62313 14.4414 63.9%
Vitamin B5 (Pantotheic Acid) mg 7.620 2.16027 8.6106 76.2%
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine) mg 0.940 0.26649 1.0622 47%
Vitamin C mg 22.000 6.237 24.86 36.6%
Vitamin E mg 0.670 0.189945 0.7571 4.4%
Water g 68.990 19.558665 77.9587 0
Zinc mg 3.920 1.11132 4.4296 26.1%
The way I mix my cod liver oil into the ground turkey:
I use one tablespoon of cod liver oil to one pound of ground turkey. You can mix it together and then portion pack them into meal size zip-lock bags, freeze them and then thaw them as needed to feed. As in the little stamp zip-locks for hatchlings, up to sandwich bags for adults.
Cod liver oil contains more vitamin A and more vitamin D per unit weight than any other common food. One hundred grams of regular cod liver oil provides 100,000 IU of vitamin A, almost three times more than beef liver, the next richest source; and 10,000 IU vitamin D, almost four times more than lard, the next richest source. Of course, cod liver oil is only consumed used in small amounts, but even a tablespoon (about 15 grams) provides well over the recommended daily allowance for both nutrients in humans. Cod liver oil is a natural source of vitamin D3.
In addition, cod liver oil contains 7 percent each of the elongated omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. EPA is the precursor of important prostaglandin, localized tissue hormones that help the body deal with inflammation; and DHA is extremely important for the development and function of the brain and nervous system. So it's no surprise that in numerous studies cod liver oil has proven to be a powerhouse in fighting disease.
They both must be fed in conjunction with each other, the Cod liver oil is needed to metabolite the vitamin A in the beef liver.
This diet is the best way to promote good sheds in tegus, if you have a tegu with shedding issues, or even impactions, the combination above will be the best solution.
Water:
Tegus require fresh water on a daily basis. It also would be recommended that their water dishes/bowls be big enough to soak in.
Housing:
Hatchlings will do great in a 20 long tank, but they will outgrow these fast. As an adult they require a much larger enclosure. I house mine outside in a 8 ft x 8 ft enclosure. Inside I use a 400 gallon showcase. If building your own cage, remember that these lizards are terrestrial (ground dwelling), So height would not be a necessity. I recommend at least a 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.
Humidity:
Tegus require high humidity level 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to have the substrate tacky.
Substrate:
I recommend using cypress mulch, orchid bark, Lizard litter, Repti-bark or eucalyptus mulch. These should not be dusty dry or wet. You can mist them a little to keep the dust down, this will also raise the humidity. Make sure it is not tacky, as to stick to their feet. Also your tegu needs to be fed where he will not ingest these substrates. You do not want him to have a intestinal blockage.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is a must!! Lights that emit UVB is a required item for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. There are some people that claim added vitamins of D3 would be a good substitute, however I do not. I do use a supplement dust. But I do not depend on it for a substitute for UV lighting. The basking spot should be a max temp of 110*F, and the cool side is fine if it is in the 70s. I do not recommend heat of any kind on the cool side of the enclosure.
Understanding UVB lighting:
UVB is very necessary in which vitamin D3 is produced in the skin of animals, and humans for that matter, and this is what also causes sunburns in humans. The vitamin D3 that is produced is responsible for regulating calcium metabolism. Vitamin D3 is obtained through UVB exposure, this is by natural sunlight or lighting that emits UVB light. I have no doubt that reptile species are unable to utilize dietary vitamin D3 through the stomach; they must have access to UVB. A lack of UVB and vitamin D3 can ultimately result in metabolic bone disease in reptiles, or what is known as rickets in humans.
~Some facts about tegus that you may not know~
Some facts about tegus that you may not know, Tegus have been known to raid bees nest, they will break open the hives to get to the hidden honey. Tegus collected for food and hides, have been found to have stomach contents that consist of honey, seeds, fruits, rodents, birds, eggs and amphibians. They will eat frogs and toads every chance they get. There are also eyewitness accounts of them eating venomous snakes and toxic toads. However, the stomach contents were for the most part seeds, and fruits. I would think that theses animals in the wild are very opportunistic in nature, eating whatever they can find as sustenance. They have been found raiding pet food bowls, as well as chicken coops. It was also believed that tegus are cantabiles, tegus are known to eat lizards and snakes if given the chance, but I have see pictures of them in the wild. In some of these photographs young tegus are seen with the adults. This would make me wonder if tegus do in fact eat other smaller tegus, or rather only other species of lizards. Tegus are even able to run on two legs, there are many qualities that can be admired about these animals. I have seen tegus around fire ant colonies, it seems these and do not effect them. I also have never seen a tegu with external parasites; this may be due to the tough beaded skin on these animals.
Colombian tegus, have been found to use termite nests to lay their eggs in, it is natures best natural incubator. Clutches have been found to be around 6 to 8 eggs hidden within these termite nests.
~General information~
Tegus are all terrestrial, meaning they do not prefer to climb. However they have been observed climbing trees in the wild to raid bird nests. Tegus are also very strong swimmers; they will not hesitate to cross water. Tegus are diurnal, which means they are active during the daylight hours. Tegus are not known to venture out of their burrows or hides at night. They are very hardy reptiles, and can adapt to most living conditions in the wild. They have been known for begging for food in parks, as well as from fisherman. They are said to be like squirrels that we have in parks in North America. The Argentine tegus can be found living very close to humans, often living in towns and suburbs in many places throughout their range. Colombian tegus feed on a large variety of insects, fish, small reptiles, amphibians, eggs, invertebrates and small mammals. They are fast-moving lizards of the species Tupinambis. They inhabit tropical and subtropical regions of South America The Colombian tegus lays its eggs, usually six to eight in a clutch, in termite mounds, which serve as perfect incubators with well-regulated temperature and humidity. Colombian tegus are carnivores, or meat eaters. They are also far more wary and avoid human contact. This species of tegus are not known to hibernate. The Colombian tegus live close to the equator, while the Argentine tegus live there as well but also range much farther south, and can live in a much cooler climates. When we say much farther south, we are referring to farther away from the equator, thus in a much cooler climate. The Argentine tegus will also go into hibernation up to seven months. The Black and White Argentines go into hibernation earlier then the Argentine Reds. Blue tegus will eat small amounts of fruit, but are primary carnivores as well. Very little is known about this species in the wild. They are also not as cold tolerant as the Argentine Black and Whites, Extreme Giant tegus or the Argentine Red tegus. The Black and Whites also start breeding sooner then the Reds or the Blues.
The Blue tegus will also go into hibernation. In captivity they can be clicker trained as well as potty trained. The Argentine tegus are some of the most intelligent of all of the reptiles. Tegus have been known to sometimes potty train themselves, and they do actually like human contact. Most of the reptiles found in the pet trade tolerate human contact. Of the types mentioned above, the Argentine Black and Whites seem to be the easiest to tame.
~Twitching, Tremors, MBD, UV and D3~
I have seen this twitching before in tegus that did not have UV lighting, it is not a pretty sight. Basically, some of the animals looked like they were suffering minor convulsions. As for tegu twitching, I think it is well known that Calcium deficiency is probably the leading killer of tegus in captivity. I think it can also be from an environmental problem, such as tegus becoming too hot, and maybe the answer to this trembling and twitching.
But remember, a diet abundant in calcium will do your tegus no good if the calcium to phosphorus ratio is not correct. It will also be a useless mineral if vitamin D3 is not present - a vitamin most easily obtained through exposure to unfiltered sunlight, or UV lighting. However, vitamin D3 is not a substitute for UV lighting, it also can be overdosed if not fed sparingly. Excess vitamin D3 supplementation, especially in combination with calcium may result in organ toxicity.
Metastatic calcification and gout are common results. Gout is a common clinical sign of this problem, (calcium hydroxyapatite) deposits usually appear as irregular firm swellings over joints in the limbs and on ribs, back bones, this also can be seen in the head shapes, often times disfigurement can be seen in the animals. I use UV lighting and I use supplements. This has worked great for me, as the old saying goes; if it is not broke, don't fix it. In my opinion supplements are not a replacement and it is not worth taking a chance. I think UV lighting is a much better choice in any case. However, I do not think tegus would have the same problems that green iguanas have shown. Tegus are omnivores; the intake of calcium is much higher due to the intake of rodents. It is improper calcium metabolism what leads to MBD, and that is because of improper calcium metabolism the body takes what it needs from the bones, thus causing MBD. And sometimes you will find that some reptiles do not absorb enough calcium even with the right vitamins and proper diet, their bodies throws it off as waste. It is rare, but does happen. The deposition of calcium in the internal organs, this is primarily found in arboreal lizards, iguanas, chameleons and anoles. The only terrestrial lizard I have heard of having this problem is Swifts.
I have heard that vitamin supplements with D3 were a great substitute for UV lighting. I have disagreed about this from the first time this discussion was brought up. This only confirms my belief on a way to sell albino tegus with an excuse that UV is not needed and can be substituted with vitamin D3. UV lighting is working to keep healthy tegus; it is also not a risk as with using this supplement. The big question would be, would you depend on supplements that are not proven to be sufficient, verses UV lighting that we all know works just fine? In my opinion, it is not worth taking the risks.
I would say that the supplements are just that. They are not a substitute for UV lighting. For a healthy tegu, I will still recommend UV lighting, as well as supplements. But I will not say you need one without the other unless they are housed outside with natural sunlight. I still use a vitamin supplements however. Tegus fed rodents and that have proper UV lighting do not require added D3.
Care information written by Bobby Hill of Varnyard also
used with permission by Bobby Hill for S&S Dragons only.
Amanda
Note some species will differ some on requirements.
This care sheet will be for four of the common species available in the pet trade.
Hatchling tegus will all take the same food up until about one year in age. Of these the Tupinambis merianae, Common name (Argentine Black and White), (Giant Tegu) And the Tupinambis rufescens, Common name (Argentine red Tegu), (Red tegu) will change feeding habits. The Blue Tegu is also a form of the Tupinambis merianae, but the Tupinambis teguixin, Common name (Colombian Black and White), or (Gold Tegu) Will stay on a carnivorous diet throughout their life.
Food:
All Tegus are carnivores as hatchlings, which means they only eat meat. I do allow baby tegus to eat as much as they want to, except rodents. I feed them one once or twice a week, and also make sure they are the size that can swallow without too much trouble. Crickets dusted with vitamins dust, Captive raised roaches, Mealworms, Super mealworms, ground turkey dusted with vitamin dust, Pinkie mice and cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled. The only reptile supplement I have any faith in is Zoo-Med Repti Calcium without D3. Most other products are made from crushed oyster shells, and are not able to be absorbed. Therefore, being a poor product for a good healthy tegu.
As for my adults, I feed them everyday, as in the babies, the get one whole rodent, chick or duckling once or twice a week. However, my tegus do hibernate up to 7 months out of the year. If you have a tegu that does not hibernate, you can cut back on feeding him as much, or as frequent. Judged by the animal keeping good body weight, and a fat round tail base. If he starts to look like he might be loosing body mass, you can always add more to the diet.
Please remember to remove any food that is not eaten right after your tegu has eaten his/her fill. Insects are well known for stressing reptiles. This also will help keep their cage cleaner.
Adult tegus, for the Argentine Black and White and the Argentine red Tegu, the Blue Tegu and as well as the Extreme Giant tegus, they will take ground turkey; cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard-boiled, rodents, fresh fish (Not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruits. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is due to the high content of potassium (Known for not binding with calcium). Not more than once every couple of weeks. They also tend to have very high phosphorous levels. Some of my Argentine tegus will not eat fruit. They are just as healthy as any tegus that have fruit in the diet; they also have no shedding problems at all. The more I look into this, the more I see feeding fruit as being a waste of time and money. There are many things out there to feed your tegu that is much better than fruit. The Colombian Black and White, or (Gold Tegu) will take all of the above, except fruit. Also I suggest feeding only killed rodents. Live rodents can bite your animal. Dead do not; it is just not worth the chance. My choice of vitamin dust is Zoo-Med Repti Calcium without D3; it is made with calcium carbonate and not crushed oyster shell.
A side note on feeding: Tegus can get cage aggressive. They can get to where they will associate their keeper with food. There are a couple of ways to keep this from happening. The first is to feed your tegu in a separate cage or area than his home. Have the food there when you put him with it.
Another way, would be to feed him at night or when he is in his hide. Then he will not see you with food. The first suggestion is the best for a few reasons. One you handle him every day, which helps with the taming process. Another reason would be to remove all chances of him ingesting substrate. And last, but not least, the food would be fresher than feeding at night.
In my opinion, feeding fruit for skin problems has no solid ground to back the claims of some keepers. There is nothing in most fruits to promote good sheds but moisture, all though some fruits do contain some vitamins that are good for skin. There are other sources of these vitamins in much higher concentrations, these are found in meats. Feeding fruit seems to be nothing more than a wasted meal, and is not needed to have and keep a healthy tegu. There are other things that do contain the right vitamins, such as beef liver and cod liver oil. These need to be fed in conjunction with each other. Another words feed both of them once a week as a meal.
The way I mix my beef liver into the ground turkey:
I use one part of beef liver to three parts ground turkey, just mince the liver, or you can use a food processor. You can mix it together and then portion pack them into meal size zip-lock bags, freeze them and then thaw them as needed to feed. As in the little stamp zip-locks for hatchlings, up to sandwich bags for adults. You can make up a bunch of them and freeze them. Also this is fed raw, I do not cook anything for tegus but eggs.
Raw beef liver contains:
Vitamin A iu (ug * 5) 35346.000 10020.591 39940.98 706.9%
Vitamin B1 (Thiamin) mg 0.260 0.07371 0.2938 17.3%
Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) mg 2.780 0.78813 3.1414 163.5%
Vitamin B3 (Niacin) mg 12.780 3.62313 14.4414 63.9%
Vitamin B5 (Pantotheic Acid) mg 7.620 2.16027 8.6106 76.2%
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine) mg 0.940 0.26649 1.0622 47%
Vitamin C mg 22.000 6.237 24.86 36.6%
Vitamin E mg 0.670 0.189945 0.7571 4.4%
Water g 68.990 19.558665 77.9587 0
Zinc mg 3.920 1.11132 4.4296 26.1%
The way I mix my cod liver oil into the ground turkey:
I use one tablespoon of cod liver oil to one pound of ground turkey. You can mix it together and then portion pack them into meal size zip-lock bags, freeze them and then thaw them as needed to feed. As in the little stamp zip-locks for hatchlings, up to sandwich bags for adults.
Cod liver oil contains more vitamin A and more vitamin D per unit weight than any other common food. One hundred grams of regular cod liver oil provides 100,000 IU of vitamin A, almost three times more than beef liver, the next richest source; and 10,000 IU vitamin D, almost four times more than lard, the next richest source. Of course, cod liver oil is only consumed used in small amounts, but even a tablespoon (about 15 grams) provides well over the recommended daily allowance for both nutrients in humans. Cod liver oil is a natural source of vitamin D3.
In addition, cod liver oil contains 7 percent each of the elongated omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. EPA is the precursor of important prostaglandin, localized tissue hormones that help the body deal with inflammation; and DHA is extremely important for the development and function of the brain and nervous system. So it's no surprise that in numerous studies cod liver oil has proven to be a powerhouse in fighting disease.
They both must be fed in conjunction with each other, the Cod liver oil is needed to metabolite the vitamin A in the beef liver.
This diet is the best way to promote good sheds in tegus, if you have a tegu with shedding issues, or even impactions, the combination above will be the best solution.
Water:
Tegus require fresh water on a daily basis. It also would be recommended that their water dishes/bowls be big enough to soak in.
Housing:
Hatchlings will do great in a 20 long tank, but they will outgrow these fast. As an adult they require a much larger enclosure. I house mine outside in a 8 ft x 8 ft enclosure. Inside I use a 400 gallon showcase. If building your own cage, remember that these lizards are terrestrial (ground dwelling), So height would not be a necessity. I recommend at least a 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.
Humidity:
Tegus require high humidity level 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to have the substrate tacky.
Substrate:
I recommend using cypress mulch, orchid bark, Lizard litter, Repti-bark or eucalyptus mulch. These should not be dusty dry or wet. You can mist them a little to keep the dust down, this will also raise the humidity. Make sure it is not tacky, as to stick to their feet. Also your tegu needs to be fed where he will not ingest these substrates. You do not want him to have a intestinal blockage.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is a must!! Lights that emit UVB is a required item for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. There are some people that claim added vitamins of D3 would be a good substitute, however I do not. I do use a supplement dust. But I do not depend on it for a substitute for UV lighting. The basking spot should be a max temp of 110*F, and the cool side is fine if it is in the 70s. I do not recommend heat of any kind on the cool side of the enclosure.
Understanding UVB lighting:
UVB is very necessary in which vitamin D3 is produced in the skin of animals, and humans for that matter, and this is what also causes sunburns in humans. The vitamin D3 that is produced is responsible for regulating calcium metabolism. Vitamin D3 is obtained through UVB exposure, this is by natural sunlight or lighting that emits UVB light. I have no doubt that reptile species are unable to utilize dietary vitamin D3 through the stomach; they must have access to UVB. A lack of UVB and vitamin D3 can ultimately result in metabolic bone disease in reptiles, or what is known as rickets in humans.
~Some facts about tegus that you may not know~
Some facts about tegus that you may not know, Tegus have been known to raid bees nest, they will break open the hives to get to the hidden honey. Tegus collected for food and hides, have been found to have stomach contents that consist of honey, seeds, fruits, rodents, birds, eggs and amphibians. They will eat frogs and toads every chance they get. There are also eyewitness accounts of them eating venomous snakes and toxic toads. However, the stomach contents were for the most part seeds, and fruits. I would think that theses animals in the wild are very opportunistic in nature, eating whatever they can find as sustenance. They have been found raiding pet food bowls, as well as chicken coops. It was also believed that tegus are cantabiles, tegus are known to eat lizards and snakes if given the chance, but I have see pictures of them in the wild. In some of these photographs young tegus are seen with the adults. This would make me wonder if tegus do in fact eat other smaller tegus, or rather only other species of lizards. Tegus are even able to run on two legs, there are many qualities that can be admired about these animals. I have seen tegus around fire ant colonies, it seems these and do not effect them. I also have never seen a tegu with external parasites; this may be due to the tough beaded skin on these animals.
Colombian tegus, have been found to use termite nests to lay their eggs in, it is natures best natural incubator. Clutches have been found to be around 6 to 8 eggs hidden within these termite nests.
~General information~
Tegus are all terrestrial, meaning they do not prefer to climb. However they have been observed climbing trees in the wild to raid bird nests. Tegus are also very strong swimmers; they will not hesitate to cross water. Tegus are diurnal, which means they are active during the daylight hours. Tegus are not known to venture out of their burrows or hides at night. They are very hardy reptiles, and can adapt to most living conditions in the wild. They have been known for begging for food in parks, as well as from fisherman. They are said to be like squirrels that we have in parks in North America. The Argentine tegus can be found living very close to humans, often living in towns and suburbs in many places throughout their range. Colombian tegus feed on a large variety of insects, fish, small reptiles, amphibians, eggs, invertebrates and small mammals. They are fast-moving lizards of the species Tupinambis. They inhabit tropical and subtropical regions of South America The Colombian tegus lays its eggs, usually six to eight in a clutch, in termite mounds, which serve as perfect incubators with well-regulated temperature and humidity. Colombian tegus are carnivores, or meat eaters. They are also far more wary and avoid human contact. This species of tegus are not known to hibernate. The Colombian tegus live close to the equator, while the Argentine tegus live there as well but also range much farther south, and can live in a much cooler climates. When we say much farther south, we are referring to farther away from the equator, thus in a much cooler climate. The Argentine tegus will also go into hibernation up to seven months. The Black and White Argentines go into hibernation earlier then the Argentine Reds. Blue tegus will eat small amounts of fruit, but are primary carnivores as well. Very little is known about this species in the wild. They are also not as cold tolerant as the Argentine Black and Whites, Extreme Giant tegus or the Argentine Red tegus. The Black and Whites also start breeding sooner then the Reds or the Blues.
The Blue tegus will also go into hibernation. In captivity they can be clicker trained as well as potty trained. The Argentine tegus are some of the most intelligent of all of the reptiles. Tegus have been known to sometimes potty train themselves, and they do actually like human contact. Most of the reptiles found in the pet trade tolerate human contact. Of the types mentioned above, the Argentine Black and Whites seem to be the easiest to tame.
~Twitching, Tremors, MBD, UV and D3~
I have seen this twitching before in tegus that did not have UV lighting, it is not a pretty sight. Basically, some of the animals looked like they were suffering minor convulsions. As for tegu twitching, I think it is well known that Calcium deficiency is probably the leading killer of tegus in captivity. I think it can also be from an environmental problem, such as tegus becoming too hot, and maybe the answer to this trembling and twitching.
But remember, a diet abundant in calcium will do your tegus no good if the calcium to phosphorus ratio is not correct. It will also be a useless mineral if vitamin D3 is not present - a vitamin most easily obtained through exposure to unfiltered sunlight, or UV lighting. However, vitamin D3 is not a substitute for UV lighting, it also can be overdosed if not fed sparingly. Excess vitamin D3 supplementation, especially in combination with calcium may result in organ toxicity.
Metastatic calcification and gout are common results. Gout is a common clinical sign of this problem, (calcium hydroxyapatite) deposits usually appear as irregular firm swellings over joints in the limbs and on ribs, back bones, this also can be seen in the head shapes, often times disfigurement can be seen in the animals. I use UV lighting and I use supplements. This has worked great for me, as the old saying goes; if it is not broke, don't fix it. In my opinion supplements are not a replacement and it is not worth taking a chance. I think UV lighting is a much better choice in any case. However, I do not think tegus would have the same problems that green iguanas have shown. Tegus are omnivores; the intake of calcium is much higher due to the intake of rodents. It is improper calcium metabolism what leads to MBD, and that is because of improper calcium metabolism the body takes what it needs from the bones, thus causing MBD. And sometimes you will find that some reptiles do not absorb enough calcium even with the right vitamins and proper diet, their bodies throws it off as waste. It is rare, but does happen. The deposition of calcium in the internal organs, this is primarily found in arboreal lizards, iguanas, chameleons and anoles. The only terrestrial lizard I have heard of having this problem is Swifts.
I have heard that vitamin supplements with D3 were a great substitute for UV lighting. I have disagreed about this from the first time this discussion was brought up. This only confirms my belief on a way to sell albino tegus with an excuse that UV is not needed and can be substituted with vitamin D3. UV lighting is working to keep healthy tegus; it is also not a risk as with using this supplement. The big question would be, would you depend on supplements that are not proven to be sufficient, verses UV lighting that we all know works just fine? In my opinion, it is not worth taking the risks.
I would say that the supplements are just that. They are not a substitute for UV lighting. For a healthy tegu, I will still recommend UV lighting, as well as supplements. But I will not say you need one without the other unless they are housed outside with natural sunlight. I still use a vitamin supplements however. Tegus fed rodents and that have proper UV lighting do not require added D3.
Care information written by Bobby Hill of Varnyard also
used with permission by Bobby Hill for S&S Dragons only.
Amanda